It finally happened!
I got assigned to a project in Osaka even though I live in Tokyo, and have to commute to Osaka every week.
It might sound like a nightmare for some, but the 3h journey had me drooling over the opportunity to try every nook and cranny of the world’s first (and to this day, the world’s busiest) high-speed train line!
So what is my experience? Well, let’s dive, in shall we:
The Amazing
The Shinkansen train
Yes, this might be obvious, but I have to stress it: Shinkansen is a masterpiece of engineering and design. Its aerodynamic shape is sleek, almost seductive, slicing through the air with the elegance of a precision blade.
Beneath its polished exterior, a symphony of cutting-edge bumpers and support systems work in perfect harmony to create an almost impossibly smooth ride, so smooth, in fact, that you could balance a coin on the windowsill at 300 km/h and it wouldn't topple. Let’s see you do that while driving…
And let’s talk about the sound, or rather, the lack of it. While other trains may seem quiet in isolation, compared to the Shinkansen, they might as well be a fleet of roaring jumbo jets. The moment it glides past, whispering through the landscape, you realize that this is the closest thing we have to a train that defies physics.
The Ekiben (Train lunchbox)
One of the purest joys of a Shinkansen journey is the Ekiben. When you reach any major station in Japan, there’s always an entire store devoted to colorful, meticulously arranged meal boxes just waiting for you, each one a tiny, region-specific masterpiece that begs to be tasted.
And the best part? You get to savor every last bite inside the Shinkansen!
The People
Everyone loves to gush about the politeness of Japanese people, and so do I.
Step inside a Shinkansen carriage and you’ll sense an unspoken code of respect. Nobody will say a word unless spoken to, and if someone gets a call, they’ll rush faster than a speeding bullet to the nearest bathroom!
Yet, the politeness of Japanese salarymen goes one step further. No matter how much space there is, they’ll always (always!) ask if they can recline their seat. It’s a moment of everyday thoughtfulness that quietly showcases the genuine humility and courtesy you find on board.
The Train Frequency
If you think the speed is astonishing, just wait until you hear how frequently these trains run.
At peak times, Shinkansens arrive and departs over 13 times every hour, and it’s downright insane how precisely they manage to stick to the schedule, train after train, minute after minute.
The OK
The Online Booking System
I’ve heard horror stories that it used to be downright awful, but even now, it’s still a bit of a pain (like too many other Japanese websites...).
For starters, it never seems to remember any of my details, despite my having an account. Then there are the perpetual maintenance periods—it’s as if they physically need someone to stand guard over the server. Still, there’s a huge silver lining: Shinkansen tickets are insanely flexible. If you show up an hour early, you can just rebook for a train leaving in the next ten minutes—no fuss, no extra cost.
The Pricing
Yes, I’m traveling for business, but it still hurts to shell out around ¥15,000 for a one-way ticket. It’s not a dealbreaker, you’re paying for quality after all, but it does feel a bit sad when you realize you can often find plane tickets for half the price. Speed and comfort come at a premium, I suppose.
The internet
Yeah, the on-board internet service is kinda trash. It’s slow, doesn’t work in tunnels, and sometimes stops working even when the train is standing still.
However, I feel like this is by design - It is the perfect excuse to relax and isolate yourself from the hustle and bustle of the online world for a while, and trust me, you’ll need it if you work in Japan…
The Horrible
The Tourists
I know hating on annoying tourists is like a national sport in every country, but I'd say it's especially bad in Japan.
The Shinkansen is so nice because there are so many unwritten rules, but because they’re unwritten, the tourist has no idea about them, and boooy is it noticeable.
While traveling, I’ve encountered so many tourists talking loudly, talking on the phone, standing in the middle of the walk-lane while people are trying to get off, putting their massive suitcases on the top shelf (which is only meant for carry-on - one time I saw a tiny Japanese lady almost die because it fell down on her head!!!).
Japanese people are so passive they never protest, which enables these tourists to freely pester the lives of others.
I know I know… I should be the one to stand my ground and tell them off, and I will! Just not today...
The Three-Seat Row Middle Seat
Shinkansen seats are really comfortable, and it never feels cramped anywhere, even when the person in front of you reclines fully, unless… you’re in the middle seat in the three-seat row!
A seat so hated you see people stand more often than booking this seat, a seat that in some magical way makes you feel as claustrophobic as in a middle seat in a low-cost carrier… An even worse part is that because Japanese salarymen have a tendency to fall asleep as soon as they sit down, and sleep HARD, you’ll have to literally punch them to wake them up if you need to go to the bathroom.
Avoid at all cost!
So, how do I find it commuting with the Shinkansen every week?
Well, it’s wearing on me, with all the hotel stays and being away from friends and loved ones.
However, the journey is still incredibly enjoyable, despite it taking around eight hours door to door each week. It’s like a time box that allows me to zoom out from the world of work and deadlines, enjoy a podcast or a movie in complete silence, or just sit with my own thoughts for a while.
It makes me wonder if I can ever go back to traveling by car or bus for commuting. Hopefully, I’ll never have to wonder…
thanks!! I dont know how I received it but I enjoyed it
Somehow I missed this article previously. The Shinkansen is the best train in the world, no two ways about it. But I regret that 'shanai hanbai' is disappearing from the Shinkansen. The best thing for me is to board a train, sit down, and then shortly after departure buy a cold can of beer from the food cart and (quietly) slurp away. It's harder and harder to do that now.